Category Archives: Alpine Climbing

The Winter of 2017-18

It's been so silly good, for so long, with days blending into weeks, of storm after storm, filling in the upper mountain like I've never seen it before. I'm pushing my skis into lines and over cliffs that haven't been possible in my 35 years playing here. It is just so fat! Couloirs are becoming faces, cliffs disappeared 2 storms ago, and it goes on...

I've tried posting an update several times since returning from the waters of Brazil and Hawaii, but the story keeps changing. Maybe this one will be it? So many fun photos of fun faces, hovering over the fabulous snow surface, as we make our way to the valley floor. Thank you for the amazing days folks!

Bitchen Salbitschen

Layback, crystals crunching under foot like I'm the first person to have ever climbed this route, straight arms, feeling the opposition through my hips twisting, not knowing which appendage to move next. Will this smear on left foot hold, as I reach high with my right hand to grab this crack higher up? Maybe I should have set that piece better, 3 meters below, so it wouldn't have popped out, sliding down the rope 15 meters to my last piece of protection, causing my right foot to start bouncing up and down like a Singer sewing machine rattling out a new garment. And I ask myself, why do I do these things?
Climbing on "Excellent" Gemsplanggenstock

High on "Incredible" Gemsplanggenstock

Fi figuring out the last move on "Excellent"

Fi figuring out the last move on "Incredible"

I've climbed for years all around this area of central Switzerland, but have saved Salbitschen until today. What an amazing valley of perfect granite walls and ridges. Hans Berger has spent the last 34 years lifting this area into an alpinist's heaven, and with his wife Beatrice, running the Salbithutte, developing wonderful hiking itineraries and outrageous routes on pristine granite. Thank you both! It's mid-summer and things are really heating up. The steel colored glaciers were gushing enormous quantities of water last week, but the two snow falls and lower temperatures have eased that pressure and it's now looking fresh and white up high.
The lovely Riedbach below the Bordier Hut.

The lovely Riedbach below the Bordier Hut.

There's another 3 weeks of high season alpine climbing, then some fun trips for autumn. After this past month of May, powder and silky, spring snow skiing in Greenland, I completed my kite instructor's license in June and started a catamaran based kite trip through the Cyclades of Greece. We're looking to do the same, kitesurfing catamaran based trip this fall, in the Caribbean. Contact me if you're a beginner or confirmed kite surfer to enjoy this relaxed way of sailing.
The joy of sailing over the sea.

The joy of simply sailing over the sea.

And for winter 2017-2018, I'll be at it again, hopefully enjoying with you together, what these fine Alps have to offer.
  • Sailing Caribbean catamaran/kitesurfing adventures October 28- November 5 €1'900/person
  • ISTA Avalanche Education
  • Skiing India/Kashmir February 3-10 €2'100.00/person
  • Heli/Randonée Skiing Greenland April 23-29 €8'800.00/person
  • And private guiding, daily off-piste/back country all winter and spring in the various Alpine valleys of Valais, Bern, Chamonix and La Grave France and Italy and multi-day trips ski-safari for the ultimate in fine skiing adventure.
 

Autumn Thoughts

As the cold rain pitter patters outside my window, it's snow at altitude, shutting down my current summer alpine dreams. My thoughts skim back over these past few days, weeks and into last year's snows. It's been a fun and relaxing summer with family, friends, and clients, new and old. Fi and I mixed it up, climbing the Nadelhorn last week, then spending a wonderful day on the Jagihorn, cruising up delightful granit under a warm, blue sky.
Fiona near the summit of the Nadelhron

Fiona near the summit of the Nadelhorn

Hans Ahead

Yours truly nearing the summit of the Nadelhorn.

Fi climbing on the Jagihorn

Fi climbing high on the Jagihorn

I had some nice days with my two "kids" on local rock.
Anya climbing local rock

Anya climbing local rock

And a super week with Susan, preparing for the Matterhorn.
Susan Dennard on the top of the Matterhorn.

Susan Dennard on the top of the Matterhorn.

I'm preparing for another fun winter season, scheduling early winter avalanche courses and off-piste ski days. Contact me as soon as you know your winter schedule so we can share more fun adventures together. Maybe we'll get another November start like last year's!

Opening day Verbier- Winter 2015/16

Via Ferrata Loéche les Bains Gemmi-Daubenhorn

Have you ever done a Via Ferrata? Thanks to the Werlen bros. and many others, Switzerland has a huge one! I've climbed and ski toured many times in and around this valley and have always been impressed by this huge cliff towering above Leukerbad. It's unimaginable that one would put a via ferrata up these 1000 meters of rough limestone. The amount of rock fall alone would make this project seemingly impossible. But the route is amazing. Calculate a solid 6 hours up and 2 hours down. One starts by taking the lift from Loeche to the Gemmi pass. We got on the first ride up at 7:50 with the employees. A 30 minute walk down to the start of the via ferret got us going at 8:30. One starts with some horizontal hiking, high above Loeche. We flushed a couple of Ibex who knocked off some sizeable rocks, but below us. Then the fun begins with a few moves across a vertical wall, a couple of short ladders, then more hiking. It's all a blur now, but passing through a natural tunnel in the wall, seriously gripped traversing a vertical section 100 long, seemingly 1000s of meters above the valley floor, (no photo taken here!), then onto the final ladder, too vertical on failing arms... Just a blur...