Summer is over and I have not published a thing! Too much time to do too many things!
The weather is back to summer-time temps, reflecting again the in and out weather in the Alps this season. Most recently, we did a couple of real fine climbs on perfect granite. One, up the Val d’Arpette, which many of you know from winter ski season. The other on the Pointe Lachenal above the Chamonix valley.
Olivier Roduit’s route on the Six Carro in the Val d’Arpette is one of the nicest climbs anywhere! The rock is stunning, with all sorts of cool forms, from cracks to knobs. The Contamine Route on the Pointe Lachanel is another supreme route, offering the aspiring, clean, crack climber the opportunity to protect his lead with the sole use of rocks and friends.
The weather is just starting to resemble summer-time in Verbier. At 1500 meters above sea level, the cold temperatures and clouds tend to linger longer in Verbier in Spring… like two months longer! But the alpine rock is coming quickly into shape now. We climbed Eureka, one of the 5 pitch climbs on the north face of the Pierre Avoi. The moves on this fine, moderate, 6a route, are all real nice, and on a good quality of limestone. Bring a 55 meter rope for the 3rd pitch.Though the sun doesn’t get on it until afternoon, the forecasted 0 dgrees at 3800 made it warm enough by mid-day to stay warm. No photos this time…
The forecast calls for more warm weather with afternoon thunder showers for the next few days.
Swiss Meteo wrote that yesterday was the calm before the storm. So we headed over the ridge to Italy, Aosta, to climb a 13 pitch! rock route. What a gas it was to touch this fine granit so close to the road. We climbed “Mitico Vento”, 6b, 500m above the Val d’Aoste.
The forecast is for winter to move in fast. Sunday may see temperatures dip to -11 here in Verbier! Yikes! It is snowing lightly now in Verbier, with 30cm forecasted over the next 24 hours. Storm force winds from the NW will be blowing for the next few days. Looks like the ice may come into shape real soon.
I will be offering clinics for aspiring ice climbers during the next 3 weeks. Give me a call or email if you are interested in joing one of these groups.
The rock is hot during this fine Indian Summer. Funny how the weather was so unsettled preceding this Autumnal equinox. Although we have had a few dustings of snow in the high mountains. But pure rock routes at medium elevations are now revealing their intense allure.
A few photos of the rock climbing at this fine crag above the Rhone Valley, show the intense fall colors in these mountains.