Category Archives: Ski Mountaineering

Early Winter in Verbier

Returning from South America and my trip to the Antarctic Peninsula, I was ready to enjoy a little downtime around the house. However, the weather had other plans as the snow came early this season, and I quickly found myself skinning up to the peaks behind my house and enjoying skiing incredible fresh powder. The temperatures were fluctuating wildly, as they do this time of season, giving us snow, then rain, then snow. Though this may be disappointing for some people, it’s actually a great foundation for our base of snow.I was fortunate enough to have the time to enjoy the fresh snow outside and the rainy days by staying indoors.

On December 6th, @gilleslekieur and I skinned to the top of Mont Fort and skied directly off the back of the summit in some of the most amazing conditions I’ve ever experienced back there. The snow was not so deep as to make us worry about getting knocked down by big slough slides. And with the fluctuating temperatures, the avalanche danger had come down to a level 2 out of 5. We were both on K2’s new Crescendo ski, with a massive 132mm under foot. Experiencing the sensation of boundless weightlessness as I let go of the ski at the end of each turn, soaring effortlessly into the next on this steep slope backside, was incredibly liberating.

Sharing this early, profound, and challenging skiing experience with a close friend and fellow guide brought immense satisfaction. Throughout the day, we exchanged smiles, fully aware of the exceptional nature of this shared adventure.

We ascended another 400 meters to reach the col above Fionnay and experienced a wild and wonderful ski down, watching the Ibex and Chamois scamper across the bare slopes above us.

Truly, it was a day to remember.

Ultimate Ski Safari

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Skiing 2000 meters down wild couloirs to bowls to more couloirs into a tiny primitive village in the middle of their annual celebration with everyone wearing outlandish costumes, was our last day of a 7 day ski Safari.

Staying flexible to location, route and lodging was key again to our excellent little adventure. Not knowing which valley, which town or which isolated village we would arrive in the next day made it all that much more stimulating.

Starting just across the Rhone Valley from Verbier, at Montana Crans, we headed up the wind scoured Wildstrubel, only to get blown off 200 m from the summit. With our tails between our legs, we headed south back into the Valais rather than our intended descent north into the Bernese Oberland. It was obvious the wind was hammering the high peaks, so we decided to had a fun day riding a little lift and skiing beautiful power through the forest on the other side of the Rhone valley. Then into the Loetschental next day, over the north ridge for an all-day-run down a lovely valley surrounded by huge rock walls to Wengen, where we met up with team Telluride who joined us for an epic descent the next day, after skinning then skiing then skinning then skiing then skinning into another remote valley, sliding up to the front door of a four-star hotel, served cheese fondue and then, them, team Telluride, skiing down and away in the dark full of white wine and cheese to make the train back to Zürich. Us three, we woke up to hot expresso and a delicious buffet breakfast, slapped on our skins, and headed to the pass 1’400 m above us. The descent down the other side to Kandersteg was the “valley of cliff bands” needing good route fighting or several hundred meter rappels if you got it wrong. With no rope in my backpack we opted for solid route finding. Not another soul in site, just us and the chamois, skiing powder through the last cliff band onto the Oeschinensee, surrounded by hundred-meter-tall-frozen-waterfalls and then sausage and soup in the restaurant on the other side. We found another cozy hotel in Kandersteg, then hopped on the train the next morning right behind the hotel, taking us back to our car in Loetschental and that fabulous last run into the valley celebration.

My first ski Safari of the season and I want to go again tomorrow!

Opportunities present in a dry December

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The driest December in this area since measurements began in 1864 created new challenges for a mountain guide like myself. I could have behaved like Chicken Little and believed the end was near, or rather taken advantage of those conditions. The foehn episode that dried the northern Alps in November, coated the southern Alps with a lovely layer of fresh powder. Living close to that main divide here in Verbier, my clients and I profited from the situation, ski touring and heliskiing in the south, and hiking and climbing in the north.

For those who enjoy being outside no matter the weather and conditions, I’ve found it so rewarding to share these mini adventures with you. Thank you! The following 20 pictures show some of our days together on skis, skins and foot, enjoying what mother nature provides.

Winter!

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October snows, leading to November snows, leading to December sun! Conditions are excellent at altitude, resembling prime alpine conditions of spring time. A stable snowpack in the high mountains has stuck to many of the icey faces that often don’t see snow until spring. Isolated areas, protected from the November Foehn winds, give rise to primo conditons for steep skiing in boot top powder.

For those of you who have heard about the ISTA method of avalanche training, I am a certified ISTA instructor, offering group and private avalanche courses. After spending a few days with me, talking about snow metamorphism and slope analysis, you will feel more capable to understand and analyse the untracked slopes you want ski.

This gorgeous weather is forecasted to be with us for another week, when this high pressure system should weaken, allowing more humidity to make its way onto the continent. Have fun skiing that boot top pow!